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Take a look at my profile, or follow the links:
people.tribe.net/5ebcbe8a-...ca4/photos
to see what we did.
people.tribe.net/5ebcbe8a-...ca4/photos
to see what we did.
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Tue, January 20, 2009 - 11:05 PMOk, those wheels look hecka stronger than bicycle wheels, so if you must replace them to a standard tire size, then the garden cart type we talked about is probably the way to go.
What does the bolt that goes thru the welded nut do? The one on teh left side of the freewheel. And where is it that the un-driven wheel is separated from the driven axle -- is it inside the tube with the bolt, or at the wheel? (Man, this would be easier if I could lay my hands on the thing!) Either way, I imagine it is doable to install the garden cart wheels.
Now.... an other thing. Have you ridden this quite a lot with the red bicycle? Or did you just install that? I'm concerned about the small sprocket that drives the second chain. Depending on which design that hub is, the "backwards" chain could unscrew that sprocket. Some of those rear wheel sprocket clusters are assembled with threads, and tighten with use. To disassemble, we use a length of chain as a tool, and unscrew it.
The other design assembles with splines and there would be no problem running it backwards. I'm just trying to anticipate.
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Wed, January 21, 2009 - 9:37 AMIt looks like both wheels are driven to me. It seems that the easiest way would be to put a more standard size rim on those hubs. Otherwise you'll have to try to duplicate the attachment of the hubs to the axle somehow. Hopefully the number of spokes is pretty standard
I second the concern of the last sproket in the cassette being of the 'nut type'. If it is you may find it unscrews and falls apart. If not it should be just fine. Have you ever removed the cassette from the hub? -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Wed, January 21, 2009 - 9:39 AMElliot, it looks like "that bolt" is what holds the drive gear to the axle. If you loosen that the gear may spin (unless there is a keyway). -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Wed, January 21, 2009 - 10:07 AMYes, I agree that bolt is probably the "set screw" that holds the freewheel adapter to the axle. But I'm still not sure how the axle is made up. It does indeed look like there may be tubing slipped over the actual axle, as was mentioned earlier. The purpose of that tubing would be to reduce flexing of the axle, I would think. (Kind'a iffy to have the freewheel in the middle of such a long span.) But if so, it cannot be very effective, and would concentrate the flexing at the freewheel, promoting a stress fracture there.
My garden cart wheels have welded spokes, so it would take a bit of welding skill to "relace" such a wheel. But doable with suitable skills, yes.
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Wed, January 21, 2009 - 3:21 PMthe wheel itself looks a lot like the one I pointed out on NorthernTool.com the other day. So from a load bearing POV the Northern Tool one could work.
Of course, I'll defer to the master bike builders on the gearing and other mechanicals... ;) -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Thu, January 22, 2009 - 10:23 AMQuote: "Of course, I'll defer to the master bike builders on the gearing and other mechanicals... ;) "
That's why I'm here, Jay, to meet those guys, and learn from them! -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Thu, January 22, 2009 - 11:11 AMThe nut is what attaches the freewheel to the axle. The axle is solid, and super heavy. The axle spins on bearing, located just under the springs that hold the seat assembly up.
On one side, the axle has a flat notch, and the wheel slides on that to keep it from spinning free, and is the drive side wheel. The other wheel spins free, and is non-drive. I'd have to look at it again (it's staying at a friends right now) to remember exactly how all that went together.
All of it is heavy iron, including the hubs. It's a pretty crap assembly, which is why I hoped to rebuild it into something lighter and replaceable. -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Thu, January 22, 2009 - 2:27 PMA light bulb finally went on! I downloaded your pictures to my own PC, and found that the files are quite large. This allowed me to zoom in and see much more detail. Here we go:
The welded nut with the bolt thru it is NOT welded to the axle, but to the freewheel adapter, which is a larger diameter than the axle. (The adapter is surely welded to the freewheel, as there is no room for a threaded adapter -- the axle being so large.) So the axle is solid. This very heavy axle, my friend, is what makes this "crap" work. (I wondered, and speculated, and hinted about the possibility of the axle failing, but now I am sure that this is a sound design.) If the axle were not so stout, it would bend under the pull of the chain.
I happen to be in the freewheel adapter "business", and my thread-on adapters are for 3/4 inch axle. (Commercially available ones are for 15 MM and 5/8 inch.) A 3/4 inch axle must be supported quite close to the freewheel. So now we are happy with the axle. Simple and effective.
Now for the wheels. You have threaded spokes -- not welded like the garden cart wheels! This does indeed make it more realistic to lace up new rims to the old hubs. I have not counted your spokes -- I go crosseyed before I get half way. But count your spokes, and compare with mountain bike wheels. Then study wheel lacing. First place I would look to learn wheel lacing is the Sheldon Brown / Harris Cyclery web site. The late great Sheldon Brown posted a veritable university course in bicycle repair. You would want very high quality mountain bike rims, to take the heavy load.
But I'm still thinking it might be easier to adapt the garden cart wheels.
Good axle - don't worry about that! You are down to just solving your replacement tire issue. What numbers do the old tires have on them? -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Thu, January 22, 2009 - 3:43 PMthose tires look like 26x1 3/8" (590 or 597mm ISO Bead diameter). While not 'rare' there are few choices on the market: alloy rim, or steel rim, black wall tires or gum sidewall tires. A mountain bike rim will sit lower (about 20mm lower, depending on the tires you use).
But definitely get some mountain bike rims. Alloy doublewall- don't bother with alloy singlewall. Get something on the wide side, like 27 or 28mm at the minimum. you could prolly go up to 38mm.
There are tons of brands/models to choose from:
Alex is a Taiwan supplier of many well recognized brands and a brand itself at this point.
Sun makes a Rhyno lite- a durable multi purpose rim. MTX, Equalizer are good options too. www.sun-ringle.com/contentp...tain.php5 You can't buy direct, but most LBS's can help ya. Buying online may cost more due to the excessive shipping charges for rims and wheels.
There are others out there. I left off the expensive ones like Mavic and Velocity, and the cheaper taiwan brands. But anything doublewall is going to be stronger than singlewall.
105 gauge spokes are hard to find but will increase the load capacity. Not all rims and hubs will accept 105 gauge spokes.
Tires- the playa is flat and it's rolling behind you so you don;'t need to worry about traction. Get a cruiser tire or slick tire. 2" wide or more. Anything will do. Whitewall cruiser tires from Cheng Shin, street tires from Maxxis, really fancy treads from Electra or Felt.
You'll need to buy new tubes too. -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Thu, January 22, 2009 - 8:05 PM -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Tue, May 5, 2009 - 11:39 PMBoth TomCat and Elliot are right about everything they have said but IMO The garden wheel/ mtb wheel could work if you could
A. have acsess to a machine shop and machine the matching spline of the axel on the drive side hub of the wheel and hope the axel hole in the non-drive wheel isnt bigger than the the stock axel or
B. Redesign a new axel around the garden wheel/ mtb wheel using similer concepts to adapt the original frame. Its all time and money my friends.
As for relacing the hubs with that spoke dia. there are a VERY limited selection of china rims and i would assume finding the spokes and nipples would be difficult too when the old cheap metal breaks. I guess you could drill out a set of downhill mtb rims and risk it cracking or something.
I have what seems to be the same rear end on my china made shaw and mine has a square spline on the axel to the drive wheel held on with a bolt and cap threaded into a plug welded inside the axel. the non drive side free floating hub is held on by a nut threaded onto the axel. if that helps, if it doesnt ill be happy to take it all apart and take pics because im almost done with resotration but still need to grease the hubs throughly. -
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This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.
Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Tue, May 5, 2009 - 11:57 PMP.S.
I belive the rear end of your pedi-cab is the same as my shaw and here is what i belive is the current website for the shaw bells, whistles covers and all.
chinany.en.alibaba.com/produc...aw.html
OH almost for got did you remove the drum brake from the pedi-cab's rearend or did it never have one? -
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Re: Pictures of pedi-drivetrain
Wed, May 27, 2009 - 1:51 PMsorry for being off topic.
hey, i've got a Nidecker Mono ski and a couplla' Rossignol STS's for your single skii's if you want to include it in your next art project. ;-)
Msg me if interested.
The price is right @ $ZERO.and ZERO cents.
LOL
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